Thu, Oct 27, 2011
The Business TimesMakeup call
IT USED to be that makeup was purely an aesthetic solution and often, even bad for your skin. For women, who have previously eschewed makeup for precisely that reason, that is, thankfully, no longer the case. Advances in technology have allowed a growing trend in the makeup industry - cosmetics that incorporate extra ingredients to provide (the once elusive) skincare benefits.by Melissa Lwee
'Many people lead busy lifestyles these days and products that come with multiple benefits are a huge time saver for them,' observes Carolyn Khiu, brand general manager of Clinique Singapore.
'It is easy to understand why consumers are excited about makeup with skincare properties - for a single price, they get to enjoy a product that delivers multiple benefits. Take for example, blemishes and imperfections - not only do consumers want to conceal them, they also want to heal them at the same time.
'This has accounted for the growing popularity of multipurpose products with added benefits, like makeup with skincare properties. Being the first line of defence for the skin and the outermost layer in contact with the environment, makeup with skincare properties brings value to customers looking for all-in-one products.'
Gelainza Kong, trainer and makeup artist for the mega-beauty store Sephora has similarly observed this growing phenomenon: 'Skincare-infused Makeup' . . . is a really hot trend! Foundation that is acne-healing and makeup base or eyeshadows rich in antioxidants are what people are buying now. Some of these also heal most sensitive skins and hydrate dry skins, which are common skin issues caused by work stress and the environment.'
In truth, the idea of makeup with skincare properties is not a new one, having been introduced by super luxury beauty brands as a differentiating factor. One such pioneer in the idustry is By Terry.
'By Terry was a pioneer, innovator, launching lipsticks, foundations, loose powders, lip glosses that all combine skincare benefits,' declares its founder Terry de Gunzburg, who introduced products such as the cult favourite Light-Expert foundation ($98 from Escentials) that combines new generation hydra-smoothing hyaluronic acid microspheres with seven anti-aging substances.
'In what I call le luxe intègre - integrate and honest luxury - it is no longer an option to launch a makeup product that contains no skincare benefits.'
The problem - as to be expected - was that these products came at a price, so only a very select group of individuals could afford them. That is, until mineral makeup - makeup made of natural minerals to minimise the risk of allergic reaction - and the Korean sensation BB (blemish balm) creams exploded into the beauty market.
In the last five years or so, the meteoric rise in popularity of mineral makeup brands, such as Bare Escentuals and Jane Iredale, and the proliferation of BB creams from Korea have helped to develop an awareness among consumers that one's skin need not suffer when wearing makeup. As a result, the rest of the players - luxury and mass alike - had to rethink their strategies, precipitating a plethora of skincare-infused makeup onto the market.
One such mass brand that has jumped on this bandwagon is L'Oreal Paris that launched the second generation of its True Match Super-Blendable foundation which contains hyaluronic acid to boost moisture in the skin.
'From our market researches done globally, we discovered that there is a demand from consumers for foundation that has skincare benefits, such as more moisturising effect, natural formulation and light finish,' says L'Oreal Paris marketing manager Grace Tan.
'L'Oreal Paris True Match Super-Blendable foundation will definitely not be the last makeup product with skincare property from L'Oreal Paris. Look out for more in 2010. L'Oreal is able to do so because of our strong commitment (3 per cent of total revenue) to R&D and product innovations. Therefore, mass brands under the L'Oreal group - L'Oreal Paris, is able to produce products like True Match, that not only have strong product innovations, but with comparable levels of quality to high-end makeup brands.'
As image consultant Sharon Connolly points out: 'The thing is, beauty consumers are very brand loyal and they will always patronise their favourite brand when they are looking to buy something.
'Now, the beauty brands understand that, but they also know that in order to keep that loyalty, they have to keep up with the times. Think about it this way, if a woman walks to the counter of her favourite brand and asks for, say, a mineral foundation and the brand does not offer that, she will move on somewhere else. That is why, everyone has jumped on this 'makeup with skincare properties' bandwagon.'
The recent economic crisis has similarly inspired increased attention on this category of products. Adds Ms Connolly: 'What these products offer is greater value for money. If consumers can buy a product that works as a foundation and also help with anti-aging, it gives them more of a reason to pick it up, especially in these tough times!'
That said, Calvin Chan, medical director of Calvin Chan Aesthetic & Laser Clinic, warns that not all makeup that purport to be good for your skin fulfil their promises and goes on to advice that buyers should still check the ingredients carefully.
'I think a good one to look for is sun protection, which can be incorporated effectively into makeup, as well as moisturisers. Another group is anti-aging ingredients like antioxidants A, C and E that can also be effective in makeup and foundations. Vitamin E in particular is also a natural preservative that can help extend the shelf life of the product in question.
'AHAs are also effective in keeping skin tone bright and even and preventing pores from clogging and have been used successfully in cover-up as well as tinted moisturisers and foundations. A common skincare ingredient in liquid foundations is hyaluronic acid, which is also used in moisturisers to hydrate and bind moisture to the skin.'
And despite the benefits that these products can bring to your skin, he still believes that the use of real skincare products are still necessary.
'I do recommend that my patients still use skincare products that address their particular skincare concerns under their makeup,' says Dr Chan. 'Even if the makeup does purport to serve additional functions other than just provide good coverage, I would see that as a bonus effect rather than rely on it solely.'
Agrees Ms de Gunzburg who concludes: 'Because makeup offers more in formula today does not mean that using the appropriate day cream, for instance, would not make a difference.
'For example, aging skin is a little more demanding and I make sure I use the right day cream in the morning . . . Using appropriate skincare will really help in getting a flawless makeup result!'
mellwee@sph.com.sgThis article was first published in The Business Times
.~ xoxo, MakeUpByGelainza Beauty Editor Live Your Dream Tweet
